The decision people change their minds about most, and the one most worth making in person.
Shape decides character. Cut quality decides life.
Only the round brilliant is graded for cut on a standard scale. Every other shape is judged on proportion, symmetry and how evenly it carries light across the table, which is why two ovals of identical weight and grade can look like different stones.
Shapes that spread wider for their weight, such as oval, pear and marquise, read larger on the hand. Step-cut shapes such as emerald and asscher give broad flashes rather than fine sparkle, and show inclusions more readily.
01
Round
The most efficient shape for returning light, and the only one graded for cut on a standard scale. The safe choice, in the best sense.
02
Oval
Reads larger than its weight and lengthens the finger. Currently the most requested shape in the studio.
03
Emerald
Long step facets give broad flashes rather than fine sparkle. Quieter and more architectural than a brilliant cut.
04
Cushion
Softened corners with a deep, warm brilliance. Forgiving to wear every day and kind to a slightly lower colour grade.
05
Pear
Directional and elegant, and rewarding on a longer finger. One of the harder shapes to cut well.
06
Marquise
Maximum spread for the weight, and the most dramatic of the elongated shapes.
07
Princess
Square with sharp corners and a crisp, contemporary sparkle that suits modern settings.
08
Radiant
The outline of an emerald cut with the facet pattern of a brilliant. A useful compromise between the two families.
Choosing
See three, then decide.
Shapes photograph differently from how they wear. We will put your shortlist in front of you at the same weight, in the same light, on your own hand, which usually settles the question within minutes.
Think about the hand as well as the stone. Elongated shapes lengthen a shorter finger; a high-set round can catch on a coat pocket if you wear it every day.
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